IMPRESSIONS

CLICK ON THE DAY YOU WISH TO READ

MONDAY     JULY 7, 1997

MILES	DESTINATION	AVG MPH	WEATHER	TOTAL MILES
48	ASH GROVE	11.7		1556

THE GROUP SPLITS

Woke up in the middle of the night and the stars were out in all their glory. Just beautiful.

Stopped at McD’s to grab a quick breakfast. Dick decided to stay in town and treat his crotch rot. Seems Dennis and Merle have not been afflicted with this malady and the rest of us all have in one way or another.

Dennis and Eric are headed west from Walnut Grove while the rest of us will follow the route south to Ash Grove. The first 17 miles were a breeze and then we hit nasty rollers on the way to Walnut Grove.

Stopped at Rohlman’s Market for lunch. What I remember best about the place was the biggest double dip of blackberry and cherry ice cream I’ve seen in a long, long, time. Hugh and I sat around for a while letting our food settle. Especially that huge ice cream cone.

Merle busted his third spoke. This is not good. Pulled into someone’s yard to fix it when a couple of girls pulled into the driveway and told Merle there was a bike shop in Willard so we patched him up as best we could and sent him on his way.

I wrote a good portion of today’s journal from the shade of a beautiful rocking swing bench in Ash Grove’s City Park. It’s sunny, there’s a breeze blowing cool waves of freshness, and the trip is fun again. Love, hate, love, hate.

Sure does not take much to make me happy! The pool was closed (boo!) so I thought I’d have to resort to my solar powered water bottle shower system but later on in the evening swimming lessons were being given. I went to the folks and asked if we could use the showers. Felt like a semi-human afterwards. Feels great to take a shower.

I found a small flag along the road and with one of Merle’s broken spokes I fashioned me a little pole to tie it to and stick it in Betty Boop’s back pannier.

The hills today were interesting in that although our average speed is increasing we were really tired from slamming down them at 30 MPH, making sure the bikes were in high gear as we powered down the hill and then pedaling for all we were worth to try an make it to the summit of the next. If we didn’t succeed, we’d slow down as if a big hand were pulling us backwards and we’d end up crawling along at 2-3 MPH. This is the kind of speed where we can not outrun annoying flies and even butterflies were faster than us. On the downhills though, it was not unusual to have grasshoppers and locusts slapping up in suicidal waves against my windbreaker.

The find of the day was a roller coaster road about 11.6 miles out of Marshfield. It went for 1.5 miles and was fun and easy. Felt just like I was on a roller coaster but with my legs providing the energy to make the tops.

Along the route, Hugh and I ran into a local biker a Walnut Grove named Mike who befriended us. He didn’t ride well but what he lacked in skill he made up for in determination. He says his local bike shop is on the web so I plan to check it out. It’s called Spring Bike or something like that.

Sure is a lot of fun talking with the locals and getting a bit of the color of the area. For the most part we are made very welcome but so far no one’s invited us to stay at their place for the night. Maybe it’s because we are too large a group.

The three of us (Hugh, Merle, and I) went to eat at Pennington’s Restaurant right across the street from the park. There is also a grocery store co-located with the restaurant. Chatted up the waitress who’s working two jobs to get money to continue school at Southwest Missouri State University in Springfield. Ate very well and the service was good. I left like a stuffed turkey.

As we were walking back Merle spotted some kids near our gear so we hightailed it over there and I caught two kids screwing around. One had taken my flag so I dressed him down and sent the both of them on their way. Then I noticed they had taken one of my apples. This was the last thing I expected in small town but no town is immune from stuff like this. And, on the whole, it really was not done maliciously. The kids could have taken virtually anything else but did not.

Heard the weather should dry up some which will provide some relief from humidity but I can already imagine the heat we’ll get in Kansas.

TUESDAY    JULY 8, 1997

MILES	DESTINATION	AVG MPH	WEATHER	TOTAL MILES
70	PITTSBURG, KS	11.7		1626

ON THE HUNT FOR DOROTHY AND TOTO

Another messed up day in paradise. I did make it to Kansas, though. But not without my share of weather troubles.

Grabbed a quick breakfast and left at 6 with cool weather to help us along. Just three of us: Merle, Hugh, and myself. The first 17 miles were a bit of a pain in the ass, as usual, and as can be expected for being on the outskirts of the Ozarks. Then the skies we were riding into suddenly got dark very,very quickly. I was watching the clouds and they had very definite tornado characteristics. I could almost visualize the funnels they’d make. As we rode, I kept an eye out for some sort of shelter from the storm. Sometimes it was a barn, sometimes a house, sometimes just some sort of outbuilding. We saw a couple of lightning bolts strike quite closely and headed for cover. Pulled into someone’s yard and ducked into their porch. At first we were under their huge tree but saw the folly of that when the storm passed a little closer. Tried knocking and ringing their doorbell to let them know we were there and to ask if they’d allow us. But we got no answer. It rained, it poured, it hailed, it thundered, the wind blew and lightning popped in the field across from us. I commented on smelling a clothes dryer working and all of a sudden heard a car door. Turns out there were people there after all, just that they did not hear us. They offered us towels to dry off but we weren’t that wet. We thanked them for letting us stay and they left for work.

Soon as the skies brightened a bit we took off. Got rained on for the next 20 miles. At one point had to take shelter by an oil storage tank while always keeping in the back of our minds the possibility of having to break into the building it was next to if things got ugly. Since it was a concrete building we figured things would be OK there in all but the most nasty tornado.

Got totally wet but made it to Golden City and ran into Dennis. Eric had left earlier in the day bound for home. We ate at Cookie’s Café (highly recommended!!) and I pigged out on a veggie plate, cinnamon roll, coffee, salad, bread, and rhubarb pie. Yum Yum.

Dennis told us there was a brand new hostel in town and he spent the night there. Nice place with kitchen, living room, bedrooms, and TV. The owner bought the house to keep the next door neighbor from buying it and turning the neighborhood into a slum area by renting out the house to undesirables. He called the neighbors slum lords, too. HMMM, no love lost there, eh? If I had known the place existed I’d have been tempted to ride on to Golden City rather than to Ash Grove. But……………

We finally left at about 1130 after I’d gotten my jackets to dry off and replaced my socks. Man, it was nice to enjoy the flat lands of western Missouri. We had one or two occasional groaners but otherwise it was nice riding.

Made it to Kansas, the 6^th state of the trip. Today was our 36^th day on the road with another 55 or 60 to go. I immediately began my quest for Dorothy and Toto but have had no luck. It’s a big state, though and I am sure something will turn up.

We pulled into Pittsburg and stopped at the Farris Café (another recommended stop!) for a piece of pie and more coffee.

I can’t help but think that Divine Providence is at work here during our ride. For so many days the weather was in our favor. What we experienced today was really not much when you consider what could have happened. An hour’s worth of riding in the rain can not be compared to all day in cold weather AND rain AND wind as we’ve heard happens to so many. When we were in the Appalachians, the weather was abnormally cool as opposed to oppressively hot—which is the norm. For most of Missouri we had great weather, too. Even today stayed cool (for July) until 3 PM when the sun came out and started to humidly bake everything.

Hugh and I checked in at the Visitor’s Center but no one left a message so we went to the bike shop for Hugh to pick up some spare spokes. Who should be in there but Merle getting his wheel trued. The bike shop owners told him the same thing we had: If you start to pop spokes and go through 2 or 3 of them, get them all replaced as they are experiencing metal fatigue. The truing, though, cost him $67. That’s a lot of money!

Hugh and I checked out a couple of motels and wanted to stay at the Super 8 but they wanted $60 a night so we ended up at the Jones Motel for $37. A word of caution: upon getting to the motel lobby you may be somewhat appalled at the condition and smell of the place. Don’t let that put you off. The owner/receptioness/proprietress duties were shared by two women. Don’t let them put you off, either. They may look, act, and seem eccentric but the rooms are VERY clean and neat and large. Oh, by the way, before I forget, don’t be put off my the mangy, nasty matted down hair dog in the lobby. We think it is on its last legs and should be dead by next summer. It was the cause for some of the foul smells in the lobby.

As it turns out, we made the right decision again to spend the night in a motel instead of going to the city park. It thundered, lightninged, and poured almost all afternoon. In the park we’d be under a pavilion or in the tent. In the motel we watched CNN, the Weather channel, ate a leisurely snack, had room to move around. 'Nuff said?

Dennis called to say he is pressing on to Pueblo. He’s at the Super 8 along with Kurt and Merle. All three will head out tomorrow. I do not believe I will see them again. The split was inevitable as my pace is much slower and they have schedules to keep.

WEDNESDAY    JULY 9, 1997

Sure was a luxury sleeping in knowing that it poured all night and there was no place to go today. Hugh and I went to Harry’s Café for some coffee and a cinnamon roll. Took the opportunity while sitting in there and waiting for the Post Office to open to write a bunch of postcards. Also went to a variety store and procured a decent flag for the bike.

The day finally cleared up but it got hot and muggy fast. With the light winds it would have been a beautiful riding day. But it was an even more beautiful resting day. However, if it stays like this the next several days I will not complain.

Hugh took the opportunity to have his bruised hip (from his bike fall) looked at. Turns out he will be OK.

Went to the library and checked some maps to try and figure out where the best place would be for Danny to meet us. Also want to meet up with Bill Marcella in Ordway and needed to verify how far it was from where he lives.

Sure are a lot of nice folks here but I just could not live in either Kansas or Missouri. Too far inland plus the weather is too unpredictable in Kansas.

We went to dinner at Harry’s (again) and highly recommend it. The wait staff is very nice and the owner’s wife is one hell of a saleswoman. She kept coming to our table and extolled the virtues of the tastiness of their desserts. So we bought some pie. She was right. It was quite good.

THURSDAY    JULY 10, 1997

MILES	DESTINATION	AVG MPH	WEATHER	TOTAL MILES
60	CHANUTE	13.8		1686

A GOOD DEED RETURNED

Lit out of town at 7 AM in very warm and humid weather but no storms. For a good long stretch we averaged 17-18 MPH however the roads did have some portions that were fairly rough.

Took several photos of this very rural, western, small America part of the state. Also got a shot of the Immanuel Lutheran Church that rose out of the prairie like a ship out of the night. So seemingly out of place considering there were no houses anywhere in sight. Or any other buildings for that matter.

Being a bit bored with the whole situation, I decided to count pedal strokes while on a fairly flat section of road with no wind. I got 280 strokes per mile or about 1,162,000 strokes for the whole trip. That’s a lotta strokin’! Gotta be careful, children may be reading this. That’s based on a 4150 mile trip. My total mileage including side trips was 4300 so that’d make it 1,200,000 strokes.

Hugh and I rested a bit at the Boots and Saddle Café in Walnut. Had a cup of coffee and chatted with the owner who just recently retired from a career in the Civil Service. He came out here because that’s where he was raised and his family needed him nearby. We started our conversation because I noticed a Linn’s magazine on his table and asked if collected stamps, too. We then discussed the relative merits of how the Post Office was issuing so many different stamps in so many different formats that it was all but impossible for the average collector to keep up. Also found out Dennis, Kurt, and Merle had come through the area yesterday.

One thing is for certain, the tree line is receding into the distance. We are definitely in Kansas! Soon the plains area will be in sight and then I expect no trees will be visible. Just a shitload of wheat and corn and brush.

I thoroughly enjoyed today’s ride. Cruising along, birds would swoop and dive in front of me flying from left to right. Couple that with very little traffic, little wind, no hills, and nice weather, you end up with a lovely day. It was not unusual to go for miles and hear nothing but the singing of birds, the chirping of crickets, and the croaking of frogs along with the whirring of the tires on the pavement.

Thrice blessed today, there was a tailwind headed into Chanute which boosted the daily average speed up to 13.8 MPH. Best to date.

Pulled into town, rode by quite an interesting advertisement with dual meanings, and checked out the park. Considering the tempestuousness of Kansas weather I did not feel too comfortable. Decided to kill some time to check out what might happen by going to the Pizza Hut and making a pig of myself at the all you can eat bar. Spent two hours in there getting cool and sucking up the air conditioning.

Called the visitor center and left a message for Dick then headed out to find Yodeling Katy. Who should we see but Dick rolling into town. Flagged him down and tried again at Katy’s but no answer. Not really too crazy about getting a hotel tonight but not too thrilled about the park prospect, I stopped in at to talk to a guy working on his lawn tractor. He couldn’t get the belt up on the blade so we helped him out and fixed it. He's also in the military so I told him who I was and he said he could let us stay at his place. Not only did he let us use one of his buildings, we also had showers, kitchen facilities, and, most important of all, an air conditioned room to sleep in. I thought we were in heaven.

For dinner the three of us went to the Holiday Park restaurant/Motel right across the street. We tried to get some drinks but found out that this is a dry county and unless we were members of the bar we could not buy anything. When we asked the cost of membership we decided we did not want to drink that badly. So we made pigs of ourselves at the all you can eat dinner bar.

Called parents to try and contact Danny (as he is never at home) and set up the Wyoming visit. Arranged to call them back on Sunday to confirm all is on.

As we chowed around the restaurant, this couple got our attention and warned us of the thunderstorms and hail that can hit this area unpredictably. They were concerned about where we were staying which is why they asked. Another couple offered to let us stay in their basement. That was very nice.

Tried going to yodeling Katy’s again and this time her van was outside but still no answer. I suspect she just does not want to answer the door.

Damn, what a luxury we had. No cost, air conditioned, showers, and classical music out of Dick’s radio. This is the life.

One postscript: the town is named after a gentleman who pre-dated the Wright Brothers in an attempt to fly.

FRIDAY    JULY 11, 1997

MILES	DESTINATION	AVG MPH	WEATHER	TOTAL MILES
61	EUREKA	14		1747

HEY!! WHO PUT THAT HILL THERE!

All our concerns for the weather went for naught as it did not rain last night. However, it was cloudy in the morning with a 10 MPH southerly wind blowing.

Had breakfast at the Holiday Park Restaurant and hit the road at 7 making good time all the way. Weather cooperated and it stayed cool. In an effort to make the trip across Kansas as pleasant as possible, we’ve resolved to get up before sunrise and hit the road shortly afterwards in our to capitalize on the cool temps. So far it worked really well in Missouri and we expect it to do so in Kansas.

Seems like all we do is plan and plot, and plot and plan against the weather. But if it works, I will not knock it.

About 11 miles out of Chanute, as we crossed Highway 75, we rode some fairly bad stretches of road which reminded us of running obstacle courses. In this case, the obstacles were potholes, and patches to the patches on those repaired potholes. Almost like combat, so many evasive maneuvers!

Lunch was in Toronto at Sally’s Café. Another good choice. Just as we sat down it began to rain. This is absolutely incredible!! Before we left it stopped.

Came really close to buying the farm today. This moron in a truck decided to pass me without regard to the fact he was cresting a hill. Who should be coming up the other side? Did you guess a car? Wrong! Another large truck! Just a little too close for comfort as far as I was concerned.

Four miles out of Clayville someone stuck in a gratuitous hill! I can still see it in my mind’s eye two months later. Lumbered up the thing at the amazing speed of 4 MPH. Got caught totally unawares. Maybe it’s better that way. You don’t dwell on the upcoming misery.

Today I got 310 strokes to the mile. Works out to 1,286,000 strokes for the trail ride and 1,333,000 for the entire trip.

I sure do not know what it is that makes these folks from the west friendlier. Is it the solitary nature of their existence? The isolation from the hub bub of city life? The adversity of their existence? Or pride? It’s like we crossed an invisible line somewhere west of the Mississippi (or better yet, after mid-Missouri.) We get waved at by all sorts of people! Quite nice. Not nice was a sign that either tried to warn us of something or advertised a local high scool. I'd like to think that, being in Kansas, it was a warning.

Pulled into Eureka, supposedly named after a guy who shouted that word upon discovering water here. They have a horse racing facility and the town is famous for its quarter horses. If we had dallied in Toronto 10 more minutes we’d have been caught in a nasty thunderstorm. Fortunately we were already in our rooms.

Dick stayed at the Blue Stem Motel (blue stem being a grass that grows almost exclusively here in the Flint Hills area) while Hugh and I searched out a cheaper place, the Eureka Truck Stop/Chuck Wagon Motel, $25 for 2. Dick’s is a nicer room but I’m a "basics" kinda guy and as long as the A/C works, it does not smell, the bed is comfy, and the TV has CNN and CNBC, I am happy. Of course, we stay glued to the Weather Channel since there is no sense in venturing out until we know what we can expect from Mother Nature.

Walked around and did our laundry and bought groceries.

Today Hugh decided to pack it in for good. He will go home when we get to Pueblo. Says he is too tired, lost too much weight, and is not having fun. Called his cousin in Denver to make arrangements to pick him up in Pueblo. So I will head out on my own, it seems. Oh, well, I had intended to do the trip that way anyway so it should not be bad.

Still trying to figure out what the attraction is that pulls at these people who live here to stay here. Some towns are nicer than others, granted, but there are some that are so desolate you wonder, "HOW? WHY?" In Eureka, we were able to see lots of nice houses with almost Victorian appearances but it seemed that next to each nice one was a trashy one. A lot of houses for sale which almost tempted me to call a Realtor for prices.

SATURDAY    JULY 12, 1997

MILES	DESTINATION	AVG MPH	WEATHER	TOTAL MILES
75	NEWTON	11.1		1822

SAY HELLO TO MR. WIND and WELCOME BACK MR. HILL

I ache all over from today’s exertion. What a long and miserable day it was. Now I am beginning to understand why folks do not like riding across Kansas. It seems as if every state has its reason for us wanting to get the hell out of it. Virginia was the Blue Ridge Parkway; Kentucky was the Appalachians; Illinois was the hills; Missouri was the Ozarks; and Kansas is the wind. Wonder what surprises the other states will bring.

Had a brisk south wind at 5 AM yet it was clear and 75. At 530 Hugh and I were in the Chuck Wagon restaurant eating breakfast. Chatted with the locals who seemed intrigued with our adventures. Many think we’re plumb crazy. HMMM, seems I’ve heard that before.

The Flint Hills presented us with a fair amount of climbing over the first 18 miles. The Flint Hills extend from Northern Oklahoma to Southern Nebraska. Within Kansas, it is no wider than a couple of counties as it extends itself through the state. Lots of cattle are brought to this area to be fattened up as it is the only area in which Blue Stem grass grows. The land, being very rocky, is not conducive to plowing, yet the grass grows well.

It sure felt like all we saw today were hundreds and thousands (maybe millions) of ¼ pounders and Big Macs on the hoof. If only the cows knew their ultimate destinies! How differently we’d be living today.!

It was not all bad today, though. We had a 17 mile stretch with a 20/25 MPH tailwind. We flew! I pounded out about 32 MPH in top gear and was not working hard. What a thrill! There were rollers, though so I only averaged 18/22 MPH.

Just as the road curved to the left and we picked up the wind again, I saw an old Titan missile silo just sitting there. That left turn gave us a good feel for the next 39 miles we’d face as we left Cassoday. In Cassoday, there was a wagon train preparing to leave. The café was packed and a Mr. And Mrs. Ed Cook let us sit with them at their table. Very nice folks. He retired from the AF in 1972 and while in the service spent a few years teaching Cambodians and Vietnamese. He got talked into pulling his retirement papers to go to Thailand for a year drawing $26 per day per diem. Back then, $26 was a lot of money. In 1972, a person entering the service made $350 a month!!! So this was big money!!

After two months they sent him to Cambodia. He told them he wanted out of that situation and they refused him. So he told them that since US soldiers were not "officially" in Cambodia, then neither was he so if he left they could not get him for being at a place where he wasn’t. he got on the next aircraft, went home, and retired. They did nothing. At least that’s his story.

The Cooks own a bunch of cabins along with another one in Colorado where they watch cyclists climb to the top of peaks and race back down.

I had a sarsaparilla float (yum) and coffee.

Cassoday is a busy little town for being out in the middle of nowhere. Monthly motorcycle rallies, annual cross country cycle run, and several wagon trains, too.

Meet East bounders Suzie and Alex. She started her trip in Seattle and met up with him in Colorado. Also saw two other E-Bs but didn’t stop as we were going uphill and they down.

The 39 miles of no services between Cassoday and Newton is not the way I’d rather spend my time riding.

The wind would screech through my spokes and at times make loud whooshing noises as it tried to blast its way through. Trucks were also a pain in the ass especially the east bound ones. West bounders would pull us along and boost our forward speed by as much as 3-6 MPH. We also rode with the bikes leaned into the wind. Hugh commented on how he was always banging his knees against the frame until he realized what was going on. Felt like we were leaned 10 degrees.

In Newton we went to the local bike shop (Great Plains Bikes) to ask if there was a place we could find shelter. The owner called around and arranged it for us. The owners’ names are John and Carol Sue Hobbs. He’s the mechanic in the shop and took a look at my bike to make sure my derailleurs were working properly.

We went to the Dairy Queen and had blizzards then went to the Sirloin Stockade to feed at the buffet. I ate like a horse.

Really sore today. Very tired and ache all over. Also very hot. Fortunately we had A/C in the room we slept.

SUNDAY    JULY 13, 1997

MILES	DESTINATION	AVG MPH	WEATHER	TOTAL MILES
61	STERLING	12.1		1883

MARY JANE, I KNEW I’D FIND YOU AGAIN

Nothing much different today in the wind department. The sole salvation was that the roads were very smooth, there was little traffic, and it was Sunday. Bad, rough roads and lots of trucks were what made yesterday’s ride so brutal. Caused me to tense up and therefore get sore.

Left town early after breakfast at McD’s.

For any riders contemplating this trip, do not expect to find anything open in Buhler on Sunday. We did not think about it and were very disappointed when the restaurants were closed. We’d come 30 miles and with 30 miles to go wanted a coffee and piece of pie really badly. So I just ate the cinnamon roll I bought earlier at McDonald’s.

Hugh struggled all morning and I think he is really hurting. He just wants to get this over with. I slowed down to better keep pace with him.

As is my habit while riding, I am constantly observant of my surroundings. I see things others miss: old cars; pretty women; strange mailboxes; animals; objects, etc. Case in point: I’ve been looking for something I’d not seen since the late 70s. I knew it existed along the roadway in wild form. Today I got a glimpse of what I thought was it. Becoming even more observant, a while later I saw more. Slammed on the brakes, had Hugh hold my bike and went into the weeds to get it - - a marijuana plant. Asked Hugh to take a picture of me with it. I believe it is the first time he’s seen it. It was a male plant and therefore worthless to those that partake of this sort of stuff.

Also saw lots of squashed grasshoppers and those not crushed were being plucked out of the air by birds on the wing. Quite a sight to witness the birds in this feeding frenzy, swooping left and right, totally oblivious to us.

Stopped in Nickerson at the Sunshine Café and wolfed down some gooseberry pie and coffee. Quite good!

When we finally got to Sterling it was VERY hot! The temperature hit 105 degrees. All three of us got rooms at the Sterling Motel. Small rooms so only one person per room. I dropped off my bags and took off to find a restaurant. Dick joined me after a little while and we chatted about what we’d do the next few days and also discussed Hugh’s situation.

Found out Sterling is the home of Sterling College with a student population of 400 or so. They specialize in pre-med and liberal arts. A very bizarre combination. Reminds me of Pippas Pass and Berea. Small colleges in small towns.

Bought some groceries, went back to the room and a little while later ate again. Then went to the local Dari-Mart for a peach shake. UM UM Good!

BACK PEDAL

PEDAL ON TO WEEK 7

© 1998-2004 VILMAR TAVARES. ALL RIGHT RESERVED. PLEASE RESPECT MY WISH THAT NO PORTION OF ANY OF THESE JOURNALS BE USED ANYWHERE, ANYTIME, FOR ANY REASON OTHER THAN TO BE READ ON THESE PAGES. SHOULD YOU WISH TO INCLUDE ANY PORTION OF THESE JOURNALS IN ANY MEDIUM, PLEASE CONTACT ME FOR PERMISSION. CONVERSELY, IF YOU FEEL I HAVE VIOLATED YOUR COPYRIGHT, PLEASE CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY SO WE CAN RESOLVE IT.